Water on a window sill or in a sliding door track during a hard rain isn't always a leak. Window makers say it's normal for water to collect there, and that the frame is built to drain it to the outside through small openings called weep holes. When those holes clog, the water has nowhere to go. This guide shows how to find them, test them, clear them, and check the caulk around the frame, following the U.S. Department of Energy's Building America guides, FEMA's advice after Hurricane Ian, and window makers' care instructions.
Stop and call a pro before you start if:
- Your home was built before 1978 and you'd be scraping paint or old caulk. The EPA says homes built before 1978 may have lead-based paint, and that scraping creates dust that may contain lead. It recommends hiring a lead-safe certified contractor.
- The window is on an upper floor and you'd need an extension ladder. The CDC says more than 100 people die each year in the U.S. from ladder-related falls, and that homeowners "do not typically receive the required training for safe use of extension ladders."
- There are power lines near where the ladder would go. The CDC says to stay at least 10 feet away from power lines.
- Water is already inside the wall, the drywall below the window is stained or soft, or the floor is wet. The Florida Division of Emergency Management says walls need to dry within a day or two to prevent mold. See our guide to cutting out wet drywall.
- The glass is cracked, or fogged between the panes, or parts are broken. The window industry's FGIA lists these among damage that should be repaired or replaced. Our advice: have the window looked at rather than sealing over it.
- Mold covers more than about 10 square feet, or water came from a flood. See our guides to small mold patches and floodwater cleanup.
What you'll need
For the weep holes and tracks (from the DOE, FGIA and window makers' guides)
| Item | Why | Where to buy |
|---|---|---|
| Small soft brush (bottle brush or dry paintbrush) | FGIA and PGT say to clear weep openings with a soft brush | Home Depot · Lowe's |
| Pipe cleaners or a small drain brush | The DOE guide uses one to pull debris out of the weep channel | Home Depot · Lowe's |
| Vacuum with a narrow nozzle or soft brush attachment | Window makers say to vacuum tracks and sills | Home Depot · Lowe's |
| Cup of water | For testing that the weep holes drain | Your kitchen |
| Mild dish soap and a soft cloth or sponge | FGIA says a mild, nonabrasive soap is usually safest | Home Depot · Lowe's |
| Dry silicone spray (only if your window's maker recommends it) | Several makers say to lubricate slider tracks with dry silicone, not oil | Home Depot · Lowe's |
For re-caulking (from the DOE's caulking guide and FEMA)
| Item | Why | Where to buy |
|---|---|---|
| Exterior sealant labeled AAMA 800, ASTM C920 (Class 25, Grade NS or greater), ASTM C1281 or AAMA 812 | FEMA says to use sealants that meet one of these standards and are labeled for exterior use | Home Depot · Lowe's |
| Caulking gun | To apply the bead | Home Depot · Lowe's |
| Utility knife and razor scraper | The DOE guide uses them to cut out and scrape off old caulk | Home Depot · Lowe's |
| Rubbing alcohol, rags and rubber gloves | The DOE guide cleans the joint with rubbing alcohol before caulking | Home Depot · Lowe's |
| Backer rod (for gaps wider than 3/16 inch) | Florida's Hurricane Retrofit Guide says wider cracks need a backer rod | Home Depot · Lowe's |
Step by step
Step 1: Find the weep holes
The DOE's guide says weep holes "are small, flat holes or slots located on the exterior at the bottom of the window frame," and that you'll often find an interior weep hole in the window track too. On sliding glass doors, FEMA says most are "contain and drain" products: some water gets in by design, collects in a built-in sill pan, and drains out. If you can't see any holes, the DOE says to look closely in case they've been covered with caulk.
Don't remove the raised lip on the inside of a sliding door sill. FEMA says many homeowners remove this sill riser because they see it as a trip hazard, and that "without a riser or sill dam, sliding doors have little resistance to water infiltration."
Step 2: Test them with water
The DOE says to pour a glass of water into the interior weep hole or the window track, or spray mist on the outside of the glass. If water doesn't come out of the weep hole, or you can see debris in it, it needs cleaning. One maker's guide (JELD-WEN) says about a cup of water poured into the sill track is enough.

Step 3: Clear the holes gently
Start soft. FGIA says to use a small, soft bottlebrush or dry paintbrush to clear the openings, and PGT/MI says a soft brush. The DOE's guide then says to "gently push a pipe cleaner or small drain brush into the weep hole, pulling out debris as you encounter it," and to "try to avoid pushing debris further into the hole."
Makers disagree on metal tools. The DOE allows a small screwdriver or wire hook used gently; PGT/MI says not to use metal tools or sharp objects. JELD-WEN warns not to put wire into weep holes under the bottom of the sash (the moving part), because it "may damage the insulating glass seal." Our advice: follow your window maker's instructions, and stick to brushes and pipe cleaners if you're not sure.
If the holes were caulked over, the DOE says to remove the caulk from the openings. FEMA says sealant should never cover or plug weep holes.
Step 4: Clean the tracks and sills
Vacuum first. FGIA says to "vacuum dirt from sill and track areas before washing," then use a mild, nonabrasive soap, rinse and wipe dry. JELD-WEN says a small paintbrush or a vacuum with a soft brush attachment works well. PGT/MI says to wipe tracks with a damp cloth or vacuum them.
What not to use: PGT/MI says never use razor blades, putty knives, abrasive pads, caustic or petroleum-based chemicals, or a power washer or garden hose. Andersen says to avoid razor blades and abrasive cleaners or solvents, and not to wash with pressurized tools. FGIA warns that hose pressure "can lead to water penetrating to the interior of your home."
Step 5: Lubricate only if your maker says to
PGT/MI says to periodically lubricate sliding tracks and rollers with a dry silicone spray, and to lubricate hardware at least once a year, twice a year in high salt air (it also says its sliding door wheels have sealed bearings and don't need lubricating). Milgard recommends a silicone-based lubricant every few months or whenever the door sticks. Andersen recommends a dry lubricant spray. FGIA says oil-based lubricants can damage the weep holes. JELD-WEN says to spray silicone onto a cloth first and wipe the track, because silicone may cause some hard plastic parts to become brittle. Our advice: check your door's brand and follow its instructions.
Step 6: Retest the weep holes
The DOE says to retest by pouring water into the track or misting the glass to make sure the weep holes are draining.

Step 7: Check the caulk around the frame
FEMA says that if the sealant is "cracked, discontinuous, or delaminated, or there is a gap between the window or door frame and the wall, the entire joint should be replaced." Florida's Hurricane Retrofit Guide says to check all seams before hurricane season, looking for voids, beads too thin to matter, and caulk that's brittle or chips out easily. JELD-WEN says not to add sealant where the installer didn't originally seal.
Step 8: Re-caulk where it has failed
The DOE's guide: cut along both edges of the old caulk with a utility knife, pull it out, scrape off what's left, then clean the joint with rubbing alcohol. Caulk "adheres best to a clean and dry seam." Apply a bead and press it into the joint. Florida's guide says the bead should be about 3/16 inch and not tooled thin into a concave shape, and that gaps wider than 3/16 inch need a backer rod first. FEMA says to make sure the sealant is compatible with the frame and wall materials and doesn't block weep holes. Florida's guide adds that some caulks can take several days to fully cure and don't do well if they get wet first.
In a pre-1978 home, don't scrape painted surfaces without reading the box above.
How long it takes
None of our sources give times. The DOE rates both weep-hole cleaning and exterior caulking at Difficulty Level 1. For how often: PGT/MI says to clean at least once a year, and at least once a month in coastal areas; JELD-WEN also recommends monthly cleaning in salt air. FEMA says to inspect weep holes periodically.
Stop and call a pro if, once you start, you find:
- Weep holes you can't clear. JELD-WEN says to call a service provider if you're unable to clear them.
- Damaged or missing weatherstripping. FEMA says to contact the window or door maker for replacement.
- Water still coming in after the holes drain and the caulk is sound. The DOE says trapped water can damage the framing, sheathing and insulation.
- Our advice: soft or rotted wood around the frame, a door that won't latch tightly, or stains on the wall below the window.
If the window or door needs repair or replacement, that's where we come in: see our door installation and repair and exterior repairs services, and read why windows and sliders leak in our Clearwater guide to leaking windows and sliding doors.
Frequently asked questions
Is water in my sliding door track a leak?
Not necessarily. FEMA says most sliding doors are "contain and drain" products that let some water in, hold it in a sill pan and drain it out. Window makers say water collecting in the track during heavy rain is normal, as long as it drains.
How do I know if my weep holes are clogged?
The DOE says to pour water into the track or mist the outside glass. If the water doesn't come out of the weep hole, or you can see debris in it, it needs cleaning.
Should I caulk over the weep holes to stop the leak?
No. FEMA says weep holes "should not be covered or plugged with caulk" and must be kept clean so water can drain to the outside.
What should I lubricate a sliding door track with?
Follow your door maker's instructions. Several makers recommend a dry silicone spray, and FGIA says oil-based lubricants can damage the weep holes.
Sources
- U.S. DOE / PNNL Building America Solution Center: Clean window weep holes
- U.S. DOE / PNNL Building America Solution Center: Caulk exterior walls
- FEMA: Hurricane Ian Recovery Advisory 3, Reducing water intrusion through windows and doors (2023, PDF)
- Florida Division of Emergency Management, Hurricane Retrofit Guide: Caulks and sealants
- Florida Division of Emergency Management, Hurricane Retrofit Guide: Water leaks through walls
- University of Arkansas Extension: Caulking and weatherstripping (PDF)
- U.S. EPA: Lead-safe renovations for DIYers
- CDC/NIOSH: Falls from ladders are preventable
- OSHA: Portable ladder safety QuickCard (PDF)
- FGIA: Caring for your windows, doors and skylights
- PGT: Window and door care and maintenance guide
- Andersen: Product care and maintenance information (PDF)
- Milgard: How to clean and lubricate a sliding patio door track
- JELD-WEN Canada: Vinyl window maintenance, care and warranty (PDF)

